The world of retinoids is not as simple as it seems! While the term "retinol" is often used broadly, there is actually a variety of retinoids with different properties. Let us break it down for you:
Retinoids are a group of derivatives of vitamin A that work wonders for the skin.
1. Increasing Cell Turnover: Promoting the shedding of old skin cells and the generation of new ones.
2. Improving Skin Tone and Texture: Smoothing the skin and evening out pigmentation.
3. Stimulating Collagen Production: Helping to reduce wrinkles and fine lines by boosting skin elasticity.
Among the retinoids, retinoic acid, also known as tretinoin, stands out as the only pure form directly utilized by the skin.However, it is available only with a prescription. On the otherhand, retinyl palmitate, retinol, and retinaldehyd (retinal) arecommonly found in over-the-counter products. Additionally,there are newer forms like HPR (HydroxypinacoloneRetinoate) and plant-based alternatives like bakuchiol.
Retinoids 101: Types, Potency, and Cheat Sheet
What are the different TYPES OF RETINOIDS?
Retinoic Acid (Tretinoin):
Retinoic acid, or tretinoin, is the purest form of vitamin A, directly used by the skin. It’s highly effective for severe acne, wrinkles, and sun damage but is prescription-only due to its potency.
Retinyl Palmitate:
Retinyl Palmitate is a retinol ester that is stable and less irritating, ideal for beginners and sensitive skin. It converts to retinol, then retinaldehyde, and finally to retinoic acid.
Retinol:
Retinol is a common retinoid that converts to retinaldehyde and then to retinoic acid. It’s effective for anti-aging and acne, less potent but more tolerable than retinoic acid.
Retinaldehyde:
Retinaldehyde converts directly to retinoic acid, making it faster and more potent than retinol. It offers significant anti-aging benefits and is well-tolerated.
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR:
)HPR is a direct-acting retinoid ester of retinoic acid that doesn’t require conversion. It provides high efficacy with less irritation, suitable for various skin types.
Bakuchiol:
Bakuchiol is a plant-based alternative to retinol, offering similar anti-aging benefits without irritation. It’s ideal for sensitive skin.
What are the different TYPES OF RETINOIDS?
Retinoic Acid (Tretinoin):
Retinoic acid, or tretinoin, is the purest form of vitamin A, directly used by the skin. It’s highly effective for severe acne, wrinkles, and sun damage but is prescription-only due to its potency.
Retinyl Palmitate:
Retinyl Palmitate is a retinol ester that is stable and less irritating, ideal for beginners and sensitive skin. It converts to retinol, then retinaldehyde, and finally to retinoic acid.
Retinol:
Retinol is a common retinoid that converts to retinaldehyde and then to retinoic acid. It’s effective for anti-aging and acne, less potent but more tolerable than retinoic acid.
Retinaldehyde:
Retinaldehyde converts directly to retinoic acid, making it faster and more potent than retinol. It offers significant anti-aging benefits and is well-tolerated.
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR:
)HPR is a direct-acting retinoid ester of retinoic acid that doesn’t require conversion. It provides high efficacy with less irritation, suitable for various skin types.
Bakuchiol:
Bakuchiol is a plant-based alternative to retinol, offering similar anti-aging benefits without irritation. It’s ideal for sensitive skin.
CONVERSION PROCESS AND POTENCY of Retinoids
Retinoids need to be converted into Retinoic Acid (the active form) to be effectively used by the skin. The longer the conversion process, the lesser the potency and irritation.
Retinoids Cheat sheet for all skin types
| Retinoids | Converstion Steps | Potency | Uses | Irritation Risk | Notes |
| Retinyl Palmitate | 3 Steps | Low | Anti-aging, | Low | Most stable and least |
| Retinol | 2 Steps | Medium | Anti-aging, Fine | Medium | Widely used & |
| Retinaldehyde | 1 Step | High | Anti-aging, Fine | Medium to | Acts faster than |
| Retinoic Acid | None | Very | Severe Acne, | High | Direct used by the |
| Hydroxypinacolone | None (direct- acting) | High | Anti-aging, Fine | Low to | Binds directly to |
| Bakuchiol | Not a retinoid, | Low to | Anti-aging, Fine | Very Low | Plant-based |
dermatologist REcommended REtinoids Depology:
01. Retilogy™ Retinal 0.05% Renewing Serum
This retinoid serum, with its 0.05% retinal concentration, is a gentle yet potent choice for improving the look of skin. It is best suited for novice or intermediate users.
02. Retilogy™ Retinal 0.1% Renewing Serum
This 0.1% retinal concentration serum is designed for mature skin types and people who have used retinoid treatments before. It provides a sophisticated method of addressing apparent indications of ageing and is intended to help improve complexion overall.
conclusion: understanding the use of retinoids
Understanding the retinoids conversion process is key to maximizing their benefits for your skin. By recognizing how different forms of retinoids are transformed within the skin, you can make more informed choices about the products you use and set realistic expectations for their results. Whether you're using over-the-counter retinol or a prescription-strength retinoid, knowing how these powerful ingredients work will empower you to optimize your skincare routine. Remember, patience is crucial with retinoids, as their conversion process takes time. With consistent use and the right product, you'll be on your way to healthier, more radiant skin.